pH of the different types of compost and soil

Each plant has specific pH requirements in order to develop harmoniously. The table below shows the pH of compost and soil. The pH up to 6,8 is consider acidic, or sour, pH between 6,8 – 7,0 neutral and above 7,0 bitter or alkaline.

Type of soil/ substrate / compost	pH minimum	pH maximum
Compost (depending on the proportion of potassium)	6,3	8,0
Manure (fully composted stable manure)	6,3	7,4
Old forcing manure (fully composted)	7,0	7,6
Leaf compost (it depends on the type of deciduous foliage)	5,0	6,0
Compost from coniferous needles (depending on the type)	4,0	4,7
Turf ground (depending on the turf)	6,8	7,4
Clay	7,0	7,8
Moss ground	3,5	5,0
Heathland ground (in chunks)	4,0	5,2
Peat	4,0	4,6
Coarse sand	5,7	6,4
Ditch sand	7,4	8,0

Organic fertilizers – an outline

Jean Francois Millet, Peasant Spreading Manure 1855

The quality of fruits and vegetables is determined by the the use of fertilizers. Unfortunately, the products found the shelves of the supermarkets and local markets do not meet the quality of organic products. The ever increasing number of diseases and pests can be correlated to the incorrect use of fertilizers. Not only does the grower need to pay particular attention to the manner of fertilizing his plants but also to keep in mind that only a healthy soil can provide a healthy crop. Although inorganic fertilizers are used on the larger scale and it seems that its use leads to high yielding , because of the intensive use of the soil in such manner of cultivation, it is necessary to use organic fertilisation to avoid the gradual intoxication of the soil. Organic fertilisation is a traditional method of fertilizing.

Organic fertilisation has been seen as economically uninteresting and organic farming is unjustly seen as a manner of cultivating plants that brings low yields and the fruits are usually misshaped or not so presentable as their inorganic counterparts.

But this is a misconception. Professional growers use the resources intensively and after a succession of seasons the soil may be exhausted or loaded with unnecessary salts etc. This misconception is also fed by the fact that professional growers use special hybrids of planting material which are chiefly intended for a good commercial presentation. In this case commercially attractive vegetables are produced but there is a toll paid by the quality and the taste of the product.

Organic fertilisation does not only bring the necessary elements in the ground but assures a more harmonious development of the plant and at the same time an increased yielding. Organic fertilisation is a simulation of the natural processes, but you should keep in mind that any kind of gardening is at its core not natural. Things do not occur in the nature as they occur in gardening. Organic farming has at its core a simulation of natural process by using products that are not synthetically obtained and which are eco-friendly. They do not leave chemical waste in the soil and by this is meant that the environment is less affected. To be 100% eco-friendly means not to cultivate at all.

The first rule is to know that fertilization and gardening is not a natural process but it is a man-made process, no matter the way it is done. Howeverm we are going to look into the way fertilization happens in nature or similarly to this.

The second rule is to know the exact type of fertilizer which a specific plant requires. Using too much nitrogen for potatoes can lead to catastrophic results.

The third rule is that the soil to be cultivated has to contain good humus and organic material. This is obtained by constant incorporation of compost and natural manures and only then to apply biological or organic fertilizers.

Therefore, the gardeners has to take into account the following facts:

1.       He has to provide enough humus to the soil by amply using organic material.

2.       The application of fertilizers has to be hygienic.

3.       No one-side fertilization, but complete fertilization.

4.       No excess of organic fertilizers.

5.       Harmonious fertilisation, but considering the requirements of each particular plant.

6.       The guidelines of eco-friendliness and organic exploitation have to be followed thoroughly.

In the following posts we you will see how to obtain and use organic fertilizers. We will discuss about different types of organic amendments to soil, the pH.

To conclude, I want to emphasise that fertilising organically presupposes the use of some products found in the household and which can be recycled. Compost is such an example and in the future we shall discuss the methods for obtaining good quality compost. Wood-ashes are also good fertilizers that can be used in combination with other biological ones. Therefore, organic fertilisation does not only provide the plant with a good dose of nutrients, or keeps your soil healthy, but also reduces the quantity garbage heap. Finally, organic fertilization can replace inorganic  fertilisation, this means that if the demand for chemical fertilisers is low, then also the polluting industrial preparation of them is limited. The only drawback is that these organic fertiliser products are not as easy to administrate and require a certain degree of involvement of the farmer in their production. However, they can be home-made and they do not require a special laboratory.

Elder and linden flower syrup

Here's a recipe for a very refreshing and tasty drink:

Ingredients:
2 l water
2 kg sugar
15 elder flower clusters (Sambuci Flos)
2 handfuls linden inflorescence (Tiliae Flos)
2 lemons

Make a mixture of water, sugar, lemon juice. Slice lemons and add them to the mixture. Add the flowers, WITHOUT previously washing them. Check for insects, dirt or small leaves. Put the mixture into a big jar and let it stand for 3-4 days. Strain through a cloth . Sterilise your bottles by putting them in an oven, on low heat, for about 10 minutes. Fill in the bottles and store in a cool, dark place.

Add a small cantity to a glass, along with, if you like, some fresh lemon juice. On hot days, serve with ice cubes and slices of lime/lemon.

Health benefits:
Lime flowers have a calming effect, which is why they are often used in cases of insomnia. It is a successful remedy against anxiety.

Pots in the garden

Plants in pots even work in garden especially when you give the pots and plants in them, enough room to become a nice focal point or a nice addition to plants that are in the garden. A focal point can be one plant in a pot against an otherwise barren wall, where the colours of the plant(s) contrast with the colour of the wall. Complementary pot plants can be like you extend or accentuate the colour scheme of that particular garden area by putting a tropical or unusually shaped plant in a complementary colour.

One of the most evident mistakes is to put plants of different groups in the same pot. You have to make sure, the plants you put in one pot, have to have same nutritional and watering needs.

Groups of plants that be put together, in the same pot are:

1. Annuals
   
2. Aquatics
   
3. Bulbs
   
4. Cacti and other succulents
   
5. Climbers and trailers
   
6. Perennials
   
7. Tropicals
   
8. Trees and shrubs
   

Each plant group has its own needs as far as type of soil, drainage, watering, location (sunny or shady,…) … are concerned. If you want to do more complicated of plants within the same group, it is important to realize that either you stick to similar colours of try to create a display with contrasting colours. The colour wheel shows contrasting colours on the opposite side.


Pots come in a variety of materials and size. Here are some basic rules to choose a pot. While you may not have a wall of pots to choose from, it's a good idea to keep a selection of various shapes, sizes, and materials on hand.

 

Know your plants. Some pot materials allow water and air to pass through them, promoting drainage in the mix but also accelerating water loss. Most plants benefit from the presence of a drainage hole; if lacking one, most containers can be drilled to make one.

1. Avoid "waisted" pots (containers with constrictions somewhere below the top of the pot), except for annuals and other plants you intend to grow for only one season.
   
2. Consider the relative permanence of the pot material. Choose more durable materials for longer-lived plants, especially topiaries and large plants that may stay in the same container for years.
   
3. Consider cost. You could spend anywhere from a few cents to a few thousand dollars or more on a pot. Cost goes up with the value of a pot's basic constituents and the potential life span of its material, so decide if you want to make (and can afford) the investment in costlier materials. Over time, more expensive pots may save you some money you would otherwise spend on replacing cheaper ones. Some less expensive materials, including reconstituted stone and fi berglass, convincingly copy the look of materials to the elements during winter; bring them inside, or at least cover them in place with plastic or other nonporous material.
   
4. Consider sturdiness. Although some pot materials are sturdier than others, try to avoid banging and otherwise knocking around any container.
   
5. Consider what freezing weather will do to a pot. Anyone who gardens in areas that experience freezing temperatures needs to understand frost and cold resistance (and the lack of it). Very porous materials, including unglazed clay and wood, absorb and retain water, which expands when it freezes. That leads to cracking and flaking, both of which can destroy a container or, at the very least, spoil attractive surface features.
   
6. Consider weight. Finally, an extremely practical matter to consider: how much weight can you manage without help?
   

Know your materials.

1. Clay containers—ranging from everyday, inexpensive, machine-made pots to one-of-a-kind, pricey, handmade treasures—are probably the most popular choice for container gardeners.
   
2. A terra-cotta pot is made from essentially the same material as a clay pot, but terra-cotta is fi red in the kiln at higher temperatures. Being stronger and far more waterproof than regular clay, terra-cotta provides much greater resistance to winter damage.
   
3. All wood will rot over time in the presence of water and soil microorganisms (not to mention carpenter ants and termites), but some hardwoods and chemically treated softwoods can last a remarkably long time if properly maintained. Try to raise wooden containers off the soil or other surfaces on bricks, stones, or pot feet; line them with plastic or metal; protect them from the ravages of winter.
   
4. Iron, steel, aluminum, copper, zinc, and lead vessels add a distinctive touch to any container planting.
   
5. Don't let stereotypical notions of plastic prevent you from gardening with pots made from it. While most plastic pots are widely considered plain looking or maybe even vulgar, some plastics closely copy the look of clay, terra-cotta, wood, metal, and stone and cost far less than their counterparts.
   
6. A catchall term for several plastic like materials, resins look and behave much like many plastics but often hold up better in sunlight and take more physical abuse than plastics.
   
7. Nothing looks as solid and ageless as stone, whether roughly hewn or highly polished. A stone container presents a visually exciting contrast to its organic contents and surroundings.
   
8. Grind stone up and bind it together with cement, epoxy, or similar glues and a dye. The resulting reconstituted stone can be cast into shapes, avoiding the effort, time, and expense of carving an intact block of stone.
   

Storage conditions of belgian endive, chicory, witloof, whitloof?

Because it is the high season of this delicious plant I think it may be interesting to post something storage conditions of chicory.

Storage of Chicory, whitloof, radicchio

Cichorium intybus, Compositae.

Botany

The edible portion of the salad chicory cultivars is the leaves, which are grown in the dark from the swollen taproot so that they are blanched. The blanching makes them less bitter. In Europe the plants are grown from seed and lifted from the ground in the autumn. The leaves are cut off 2–3 cm above the root and the crowns are covered with soil or sand and placed in heated sheds or greenhouses. The new young growth within the covering is shielded from the light and is therefore blanched. The blanched hearts are used as a cooked vegetable. Curled chicory will freeze at about –0.8 to 0.6°C (Wright 1942). Some cultivars are grown for their large roots, which, when dried,roasted and ground can be blended with coffee or form an ersatz coffee.

Physiological disorders

The margins of the leaves may turn yellow and become dry. The disorder is called marginal browning and is thought to be premature senescence caused by poor growing conditions or inappropriate transport or storage (Pantastico 1975).

Precooling

This is recommended to preserve their freshness and is achieved by top icing as soon as possible after harvesting (Wardlaw 1937).

Storage

Their shelf-life at a simulated room temperature of 20°C and 60% r.h. was shown to be only 2 days

(Mercantilia 1989). Refrigerated storage recommendations are as follows:

• 0–1°C and 85–95% r.h. for 2–3 weeks (Anon 1967)

• 0°C for 20 days in plastic wraps or bags with the tops left open (Tindall 1983)

• 0°C and 90–95% r.h. for 24 days (Mercantilia 1989)

• 4°C for 12 days (Mercantilia 1989)

• 10°C for 5 days (Mercantilia 1989)

• 0–1°C and 95–100% r.h. for 2–4 weeks (Snowdon 1991)

• 0°C and 95–100% r.h. for 14–28 days (SeaLand 1991)

• 0°C and 95–100% r.h. for 14–21 days for Raddichio (SeaLand 1991).

Controlled atmosphere storage

Atmospheres containing 25% CO2 caused the central leaves to turn brown (Wardlaw 1937). Storage

of Witloof chicory in 4–5% CO2 with 3–4% O2 at 0°C delayed greening of the tips in light and delayed

opening of the heads (Hardenburg et al. 1990).

Saltveit (1989) recommended 0–5°C with 4–5% CO2 and 3–4% O2 for Witloof.[1]

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[1] Fruit and vegetables, A.K. Thomson, Blackwell Publishing, 2003

Belgian Endive with Ham and Cheese Sauce

This is a traditional Belgian recipe !



Ingredients (For 4 persons)

• 1 kg endive (or 6 pieces)
  
• 200 grams boiled ham cut into thin slices, the fat at the rim removed
  
• 25 grams butter
  
• 25 grams of flower
  
• 2 dl milk
  
• 2 teaspoons of mustard
  
• 1 dl dry white wine
  
• 250 grams grated (extra) old cheese
  
• 1 egg yolk
  
• white pepper and salt
  
• nutmeg
  

Boil in a big cooking pot water with salt. Put the rinsed (entire) pieces of endive in the boiling water for 12 minutes. Scoop them out and let them drain. Keep 2 dl of the boiling liquid.

Melt the butter in saucepan and add flower. Keep stiring during 2 minutes while whisking. Add 1 dl of the boiling liquid en let cook in to get the sauce thicker. Keep stirring. Add half of the milk, let it boil up and then add the rest of the boiling water, the milk and the white wine.

Let the sauce simmer for 5 minutes. Stir ¾ of the grated cheese and the musterd in the sauce till you get a thick smooth sauce. Take the pan off the fire and add the eggjoke and add salt and pepper to your taste. Preheat the oven on 180 °c. Remove the foot of the endives, cut them in half on their length and wrap the ham around them. Put them in a big oven dish and add a bit of pepper. Stir the cheese sauce once more and poor it over the endive-ham rolls. Cover this with the rest of the cheese and add nutmeg and put it in the oven for 20 minutes on 180 °C. Then turn up the heat of the oven till 200 °C and let it bake for another 10 minutes or till the cheese sauce has a nice golden brown colour.

Have a nice meal!

Hippeastrum spp. / Amaryllis

Hippeastrum Minerva

Scientific name: Hippeastrum spp.
Common name: Amaryllis. A label given by sellers and nurseries, and care should be taken not to confuse it with Amaryllis belladonna.
Images: see below
Origin: South America, Central America and the Carribean
Type: perennial
Plant description: Long, rather narrow leaves, six-petaled flower, which can grow up to 6 inches wide.The plant is often mistaken for a lily
Size: stem and leaves grow to up to 22 inches.
Light: Amaryllis loves sun, and you should find it the most well-lit place possible
Temperature: 20-30 degrees centigrade
Soil: nutritious potting compost; well-drained soil.
Watering: water sparingly until the bud and leaves appear, then increase waterings
Fertilizer: use half the recommended rate of any water soluble fertilizer.
Two or three applications of fertilizer during the growing season (March through September).

Hippeastrum cybister hybrid

Flowers: large trumpet-shaped flowers, red, white, pink, salmon and orange. There are also striped and multicolored varieties, combining red and white.
Propagation: Amaryllis can be propagated by seeds, offsets (bulblets) or cuttage. The best way to propagate Amaryllis is by separating the small bulbs which grow on the ''mother'' bulb. The bulblets can be divided during fall, when the leaves begin to turn yellow. Offsets should bloom within approximately three years.
An interesting experiment is to propagate Amaryllis from seeds. When the Amaryllis is in bloom, take a cotton swab and run it across the stamen. For pollination leave only one flower per stem. Then brush the pollen on to the tip of the pistil.

After the flower starts fading, a bulge will grow at the base of the bloom. Riping will last for about 2 months. When ripe, the pod will eventually burst open. Collect the seeds. They need to be sowed soon, otherwise they will lose viability. Not all of them will be viable, but you can collect about 20-40 viable seeds.
Sow the seeds in soilless substrate Keep growing medium moist, warm and in light. They will sprout randomly after at least three weeks. Baby Amaryllis should be transplanted only when they are big enough to be handled. It may take up to three years until you will have the first bloom and the plants resulted will not be identical to the mother plant.
Pests and diseases: the narcissus bulb fly, red bloch, a fungus disease
Extra tips: 
When buying the bulb, keep in mind that the bigger the bulb, the more flowers you will have
It is not necessary to separate the bulbs every year, but doing so will encourage uniform flowering and larger flowers.
Remove the dead blooms before the plant produces the seeds. Otherwise, flowering during the next season will be greatly reduced.

Carefully inspect the bulbs before buying, in order to prevent diseases.