pH of the different types of compost and soil

Each plant has specific pH requirements in order to develop harmoniously. The table below shows the pH of compost and soil. The pH up to 6,8 is consider acidic, or sour, pH between 6,8 – 7,0 neutral and above 7,0 bitter or alkaline.

Type of soil/ substrate / compost	pH minimum	pH maximum
Compost (depending on the proportion of potassium)	6,3	8,0
Manure (fully composted stable manure)	6,3	7,4
Old forcing manure (fully composted)	7,0	7,6
Leaf compost (it depends on the type of deciduous foliage)	5,0	6,0
Compost from coniferous needles (depending on the type)	4,0	4,7
Turf ground (depending on the turf)	6,8	7,4
Clay	7,0	7,8
Moss ground	3,5	5,0
Heathland ground (in chunks)	4,0	5,2
Peat	4,0	4,6
Coarse sand	5,7	6,4
Ditch sand	7,4	8,0

Soil mixes for plant propagation and germinating seeds

For propagation of your plants and for seed germination indoors or in a greenhouse you will need different types of soil. Some seeds are sensitive to the type of soil and the diseases related to the ground and this means that they can best germinate in a soilless substrate. In addition, most of the cuttings prefer a soil-less substrate. Nevertheless, there are seeds that require immediately nutrients and then they are the best seeded in a rich soil mixture. On this blog we will make often references to these particularities.

Ingredients for your soil mixes will be shown below.

Leaf mold

It is obtained from rotting leaves and it has a high cationic exchange capacity, good mineral content but it is missing macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium). It has a lower pH and may contain agents for diseases. It should always be sterilized. Coarse texture is best used in rooting media or potting mixes.

Well rotten compost

Compost

Compost results after the decaying organic material under the influence of fungi and bacteria. Because of the existence of microorganism it may protect your plants against diseases. It has a high cationic exchange capacity and a good balance between macronutrients and minerals.

Fine washed river sand

Fine sand

It is used for a better drainage of your soil because the sand grains have different sizes and the water is drained quicker leaving air spaces in between. It is inert and it does not contain any nutrients. Use always washed sand and never use sand from the beach because it contains killing amounts of salt.

Grit

Grit or coarse sand

Use always washed grit or coarse sand to improve drastically the aeration and drainage of your mixes. It mostly used for the rooting of cacti and other desert plants that require a more open medium.

A brick of dehydrated cocopeat

Coconut fibres / coco peat

Usually are sold in forms of dehydrated bricks that need to be rehydrated before use. It is derived from composted coconut shells and it is good replacement for less fine sphagnum moss in soilless substrates.

Perlite

Perlite

It is resulted from expanded volcanic rocks. It retains the water good and because it is inert it also drains water quickly. It is used in sterile mixes to improve drainage and aeration.

Potting soil

Potting soil

Use soil of the best quality for seed germination and plant propagation. The soil must free of any other seeds, insects eggs. This soil is used for rich soil mixes.


Coir

Coir is a fibre resulted from coconut husks used as peat substitute. It dries out less quickly that peat but
requires more feeding. It is a good base for soilless mixes.

Peat

Peat

Is stable, long lasting and well aerated and retains the water well, but low in nutrients. It is difficult to re-humidify once it has gone dry. It is used for lightweight mixes intended for short use.

Dried and groud moss

Sphagnum moss

Sphagnum moss

Do not use coarse sphagnum moss in propagation for this is intended mostly as an orchid medium. Use finely ground sphagnum moss for soil mixes intended for seed germination and semi-coarse for cuttings media.

Vermiculite (magnified photo)

Vermiculite

It is expanded and air-blown mica. It contains traces of Magnesium and has high cationic exchange capacity. Acts similarly as perlite but holds more water and less air. It supports drainage and aeration. It comes in various degress of grinding. Some of the finest are used on the top part of the substrate as a physical barrier against harmful bacteria and fungi.


 
Fine bark

Fine bark or chipped barked is used as peat substitute or for free draining acidic mixtures, especially for orchids, palms and other indoor plants.

Recipes for mixes

Making your own mix has the advantage of knowing what your mix contains. Accordingly, you can realize the ideal medium for a specific type of propagation technique or plant. You can find in the shops ready-made soil mixes generically Seeding and Cutting Soil Mix. When you mix your substrate, hygiene is very important. Use only clean tools and sterilized soil.

How to sterilize soil?

If you are planning to use garden soil in your mixes it is crucial that you sterilize it before incorporating it. Sterilization will kill possible harmful organisms that could affect seedling and cuttings. To do this the soil must sifted to remove clumps, stones and any other residue, but also to obtain a finer structure. Sterilizing garden soil for commercial use is done in special units. These are expensive and unnecessary for home use. An oven or a microwave would do just fine.

For soil sterilization in an oven you will need a deep baking tray, of about 8 to 10 cm. Bake the soil for about 30 minutes on 200 degrees C. You should know that unpleasant badly-smelling vapours may be released.

In order to sterilize soil in the microwave you need a roasted bag, resistant to high temperatures. After soil is inserted seal the top of the bag to avoid the contamination of the microwave. However, make a few holes and place in the oven for 10 minutes on maximum power.

Observation: some of the substrate mixes cited below, require some addition of non-biological nutrients. You may avoid using those mineral nutrients by excluding them from the mixes. Later on we will publish some ways in which you can obtain your own biological fertilizers.

Substrate recipes for potting mixes, rooting media and seeding mixes.

Rich potting mix	Soilless potting mix	Soil based seeding mix
2 parts compost 1 part potting soil 1 part sand 1 part vermiculite 1 part perlite	3 parts peat or substitute 1 part sand or perlite For each 36 liters add 14 g ammonium nitrate 28 g potassium nitrate 45 g superphosfate 85 g ground limestone 85 g dolomitic limestone	2 parts potting soil 1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand
7 parts potting soil 3 parts peat or substitute 2 parts sand For every 36 litres add 113g general purpose slow release fertilizer and 21 g limestone	3 parts peat or substitute 1 part sand or perlite For each 36 liters add 14 g ammonium nitrate 28 g potassium nitrate 45 g superphosfate By avoiding the use of limestone you will obtain an acidic composition	2 parts potting soil 1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand For each 36 litres you may also add 42g superphosfate 21 g ground limestone
7 parts acidic potting soil 3 parts peat or substitute 2 parts sand For every 36 litres add 113g general purpose slow release fertilizer This potting mix is used for acidophile plants.		2 parts potting soil 1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand For each 36 litres you may also add 42g superphosfate

Soilless seeding mix	Soilless rooting media	Sterile substrate
3 parts peat or substitute 1 part fine bark 1 part perlite For each 36 litres add 36 g trams of slow release fertilizer	1 part peat or substitute 1 part sand (or perlite or vermiculite)	1 part finely ground Sphagnum Moss 1 part perlite
1 part perlite 1 part vermiculite 2 parts finely ground sphagnum moss	1 part peat 1 part fine bark To each 36 litres add 36 g of slow release fertilizer	1 part cocopeat 1 part perlite
	1 part peat 1 part fine bark 1 part perlite To each 36 litres add 36 g of slow release fertilizer

 

Essential tools and equipment for gardening

Although it is winter and the work in the garden may seem to come to a rest, now is the time to plan our patches for the next year. We are intending to transform this blog in an easy encyclopaedia. We want to introduce you into the main terms and further on we will insert articles on botany of the plants, plants themselves, seeding calendar, tricks and tips. This initial part may be boring but we consider it important.

The table below will show you some of the equipment and tools that you will need in the garden and the use of them.

Name	Photo	Description and purpose
Spade		Used to dig or loosen the soil or to break the clumps in the soil. The handle of the spade should reach the same height as your hip
Fork		A digging fork should have the same dimensions as the spade. Instead of a spit, it should have four sharp spikes. They are used to loosen the soil, remove the roots of perennial weeds, lift the root crops, flowering bulbs and tubers etc.
Swan necked English hoe		This is used for deeper hoeing and cultivation, by breaking the soil clods and weeding with a chopping action. It used to make narrow seed trenches with the corner of the blade, or with the entire blade to make wider trenches.
Dutch hoe		This cuts the weeds above the surface, being very useful between the rows of young veggies.
Rake		It is used for light weeding, loosening and levelling bare patches for cultivation. May be use also as a comb to remove stones, pieces of wood etc.
Secateurs/ Pruners		This scissor-like tool has a thick blade which is hard enough to cut off smaller branches or to take wood cuttings for rooting. It can have to sharp blades, or it can have one sharp blade, while the other is used as anvil.
Knife		It is useful in everyday task in the garden, opening boxes, sacks etc.
Hand fork		It is used for weeding, planting adding fertilizers etc.
Dibber		It is a pointed wooden stick used for making holes in the ground for seeding, transplanting leek plants, planting bulbs etc.
String line	See above	This is used to determine a straight line for row planting. This is easy to do it yourself.
Seed / Planting rule		It is a ruler used to determine the distance between seeds or plants.
Watering can		A long nozzled watering can allows water to flow gently and it is good for reaching across the rows or pots. It is important to have one with a detachable fine sprinkler for watering the young seedling. Also you may use two cans. A smaller one for seedling and a bigger one for other crops.
Soil riddle		A riddle is usually a cylindrical or rectangular with a mesh wire used for collecting debris, clumps, stones from the soil.
Wheelbarrow		Are designed for single person use. The one wheel models are the most easy to work with in small spaces.
Gloves		Provide protection against infections, bacteria, sharp stones. Choose a pair that is a good fit to ensure a better grip. You may have a second pair for handling roses and other dangerous, spiky garden material or plants.
Twine		It is a strong thread composed of several thing strands or yarns. Because usually is made out of hemp fibre, it may be composted after use.
Pump spray		Sprayers can be used in watering fragile seeds, distributing foliar feeds and spraying pesticides and insecticides and misting plants that require a higher air humidity level. Keep in mind that a separate sprayer it is required for each type of use.

It is important to keep your tools clean after use. For the metallic tools such as spades, forks it is required to wash and dry them after use and apply them a seasonal treatment to impede rust. Keep all your equipment away from sun and rain in order to ensure them a longer life. The wheelbarrow should be turned upside down to avoid water collecting and spade should not be kept fast in the ground because it will rust more easily.